Manilla to Sabang, Philippines "There are two seasons in the Philippines: Hot and hotter!" explains our host Carlos after we walk into his beautiful, air-conditioned flat 47 floors above a smart district of Manilla. As well as the temperature ramping up a few notches, this is a country that is a few steps further back on the development scale than Taiwan. Not that we'd know it from this lofty vantage point. It's holy week and we explore the packed streets of the Intramuros old town where crowds are queuing up to visit the austere cathedral and surrounding churches. A very different sight to the colourful temples we'd left behind. Leaving Carlos with all of our cold weather gear, we head south. Being Good Friday means the streets are quieter than usual, but we still have to contend with tuktuks, motorbikes, trikes and the ferocious Jeepney buses. They're loud, brightly painted and completely unpredictable. Soon we're out into smaller towns with lots of decorations for Easter as well as election posters and sometimes Easter decorations sponsored by election candidates. The road climbs gently all day until we reach a ridge that overlooks Lake Taal. Below us a volcanic island sits in the middle of a lake and we have to stop several times on the drop down into the caldera to take in the view. The first few days in a new country require some orientation and experimentation to see where and if we can camp. We spot a likely beach on the lakeshore and when we get there we find we're sharing it with a family having a barbecue. They soon invite us to join them and when they hear that we plan to sleep in a tent, we're invited to stay at their home nearby instead. Once again we're humbled by the kindness of strangers as Gerry and his family treat us like one of their own. After continuing down to Batangas it's time to hop on a ferry to the next island of Mindoro. The water is crystal clear we're interested to see what's underneath so make our way to Sabang where we'll be stepping off the bikes and into the sea for a few days to learn how to scuba dive. With the temperature topping out at 41°C already, we've timed this excursion perfectly. Happy Easter everyone!

Sun Moon Lake to Taoyuan, Taiwan The climb to Wuling Pass is notorious and was described by Alain when we first arrived in Taipei as being 'Taiwan's Mount Ventoux'. After the first afternoon we've winched up to 1500m and refuel on fried chicken. The bulk of the ascent stands before us the next day and we begin with blue sky overhead and clouds in the valley below. The road is a bit narrow, a bit steep and too busy, questions are asked as to whether this is such a good idea. But the traffic subsides at the next junction while the gradient eases slightly so we continue. As we tick off each set of hairpins the views get ever more spectacular and there's still lots going on with farms and terraces and villages all the way up to 2000m. But once we pass the last 7-11 we know that from here on things will be more remote. Heart rates climb and breathing become heavier as we pass 3000m. The clouds close in around us and there's no way of knowing how much further to the top. Ride what we can, push what we can't. Take each km at a time until we round the last corner and a small brown sign announces our arrival at the highest road on the island, 3275m above sea level. Elation and relief wash over us. On day 1 of Cycle Touring School everyone learns that they should carry a spare gear mech hanger with them. I curse myself when I break this essential component the next morning and don't have another one. The safe option is to get a bus off the mountain back to civilization & bike shops. A riskier option is to bodge the bike as a singlespeed. If I'd watched this stretch of road pass me by from the seat of a bus I would have been bitterly disappointed. Riding with only one gear makes things trickier but gravity is on our side with a glorious descent into a valleythen down and down towards the coast. The bike and my legs hold up and we catch a train back to Taipei. If I can't find the parts I need here then I can't find them anywhere and sure enough after a couple of days we're fully rested, the bikes are fully operational again and we're ready to catch our next flight to our next country.

Cape Eluanbi to Sun Moon Lake, Taiwan On one of the busiest stretches of dual carriageway running down the east coast we met several pairs of cyclists coming the other way. We told them that this was the worst stretch so far for us but they all said that compared to the west coast this was the best. No one had anything good to say about the densely populated industrial heartland of the west so we decided to skip a bit by train to give us time to then head into the central mountains instead. On the train we realise that we'd be passing through the huge city of Kaohsiung so make a hasty decision to hop out and take a look. Riding round the Lotus Pond in the middle of town it's non-stop colourful temples and statues and pagodas with a dash of karaoke and kids theme park rides thrown in for good measure. Despite making a very last minute request, we get to stay with Warmshowers superhost Eric who shows us round his neighbourhood. It's just the rest and change of tempo we need before we head for the hills. After another short train ride we're back on two wheels for a surprising stretch into the countryside. Villages of low houses sit amongst palm groves and we pass through sleepy towns at the foothills of the mountains. Eventually the road steepens and we zig zag our way up to Sun Moon Lake, the largest freshwater lake in Taiwan and a very popular tourist destination. Eric had told us about a challenge that requires us to ride the 30km circuit of the lake and take selfies at various iconic landmarks so we have to give it a go. Our reward at the visitor centre is a keyring that features a cyclist on one side and several fireflies on the other. Very appropriate as our camp spot the night before had been a magical scene with dozens of the glowing insects surrounding us. So far our decision to come this way appears to be the right one. However the road ahead has an almighty challenge standing in our way in the form of Taiwan's highest road. My excitement to climb over it is only matched by Kirsty's trepidation. #cyclingtaiwan #cycletouring #cycletouringasia

Hualian to Cape Eluanbi Either we were too smug after Taroko Gorge or we'd offended one of the gods in the huge temple we stayed at in Hualien but either way our luck was about to change. Staying inland we enter the rift valley. It's a wide plain between the huge central mountains and a smaller coastal range. On the flat road we speed past endless rice fields, then ducks, pigs, fish, pineapples, bananas. Anything and everything is being farmed. This area has a large indigenous population and there are lots of monuments celebrating their culture. The vast majority of the population of Taiwan are now Han Chinese and like many other parts of the world it looks like the original inhabitants are having a hard time. The villages are noticeably more run down and less developed. A big climb and sweeping descent takes us back over to the coast and straight away we revert back to wealthier towns. After stopping at a posh bakery in Taitung I set off into the road again and then BANG! I'm on the deck before I know what's hit me. Alongside me a blue scooter is also on its side. I jump up and somehow seem to be unharmed. Thankfully the scooter rider is also soon on her feet with the front of my bike being the worst casualty. A large part of a day is then spent in the police station and then finding someone to bend my forks back into shape (thank goodness for steel) and buying a new front wheel. Where Taroko gorge had reminded us why we love cycle touring, incidents like this make us question why we do it and it will take a couple of days to get our mojo back. Although frustrating at the time, and a huge shock we have to be thankful that the gods weren't harder on me, the whole episode could have been much worse. The roads are now very busy due to a 4 day national holiday so we ride with extreme care and attention all the way down to the southern tip of the island. Here we find another lighthouse to match the one we'd seen in the north. Taiwan end to end is done and next we'll be turning north again to get back to Taipei. The smell of incense drifts out as we pass another small temple, I give three short bows and ask that our journey be safe for the west half of the island.

Taroko Gorge, Taiwan We've been privileged to have ridden on some spectacular roads around the world and this next section is up there with the best of them. But it was only a few days ago that we knew for sure that we'd be able to get to it. Last year a large earthquake hit the Hualien region causing damage to the towns and landslides on the hills, evidence of which we'd already seen on our way down the east coast. One of Taiwan's most impressive natural areas, Taroko Gorge was badly hit and repairs were hampered by various monsoons and Typhoon Kong Rei later in the year causing the road to stay shut until early this year. Even so we weren't sure if bikes were allowed in but a Canadian cyclist we'd met confirmed we could ride it. We arrived at the entrance gate just before 10am where a queue of cars was already waiting. The gate swung open and everyone was let through and the gate shut behind us. It meant that the small batch of cars would speed off ahead of us and we'd have the road to ourselves. And what a road! Immense marble cliffs towered overhead on either side of us and as the gorge closed in at the pinch points our road became a carved notch in the rock. Tunnels and bridges kept the gradient gentle as we worked our way up with our necks craning to try and take in the scenery. There were even more perilous smaller side roads but these were all closed due to the landslides and likely to be for years to come. We didn't mind though as we were just glad to be there at all. As the gorge widened out we reached our turnaround point and stopped for a picnic lunch. A car stopped to shout a warning that we couldn't quite catch. It was too late anyway as a troop of monkeys ambushed us stealing cakes, crisps and an orange. Their bared teeth told us not to put up a fight so we packed up fast and retreated back into the gorge.  The return gave us a reverse view of the incredible landscape but all too soon we emerged back at the entrance. There are some dull days during a cycle tour, some tough days and some miserable days. But it just takes a day like this to make us remember why we do it. #tarokogorge #tarokonationalpark #cyclingtaroko #cyclingtaiwan #gorge

Taipei to Qingshui Cliff l, Taiwan  The plan is to ride clockwise round the island with a few detours along the way so we start by heading north from Taipei back on cycle route 1. The sun has been replaced by drizzle that then turns to heavy rain which becomes the norm for the next few days.  Skirting round the north coast we spot a sign to the largest steel sculpture in the world in the form of a many handed Buddha so climb a hill to take a look. On the way back down we squelch into a cafe for lunch and must look so forelorn that the owner refuses payment. Passing the lighthouse at the most northerly point of Taiwan we begin heading down the east coast. The wind is now very strong and whipping the sea up into huge waves on our left while cliffs loom over our right side. It's been another Marty Pellow day and we're wet, wet, wet so take shelter in a Taoist temple. After a discussion with the caretaker we're allowed to stay the night. They'll be celebrating the birthday of Zhou Kui,  the god of warding off evil spirits, the following day and a coach load of followers arrive bringing music and fire crackers.  The rain has drowned my phone which wastes a day trying & failing to get it fixed and then having to sort out a replacement. It's a well timed break though as when we get back on the road we not only leave the town behind us but also the rain and enjoy a day climbing up onto a spectacular coast road with sections that are perched on top of a steep drop down to the bright blue sea. Monkeys shout at us from the tree tops and the sun makes an occasional appearance through the clouds. We push on until dark and set up camp on a viewing platform near to Quinshui Cliff. I love waking up to a brand new view so look forward to seeing the cliffs in the morning. We're also looking forward to riding one of the natural highlights of Taiwan but that day deserves it's own post.

Taoyuan to Taipei, Taiwan We're watched over by three security guards as we assemble the bikes in the arrivals hall of Taoyuan airport and then escorted to the nearest bus stop. We're now in Taiwan/Chinese Taipei/The Republic of China or even The People's Republic of China depending on your point of view. Our route into Taipei is on national cycle route 1 which initially turns out to be a hard shoulder of a dual carriageway. Passing massive ports and huge flyovers it eventually takes us to a much more pleasant riverside path into the city. It's a green oasis and we cross mangroves and rice paddies as the tower blocks get taller either side. Nearing the centre we meet Alain, a local with lots of cycle touring experience who takes it upon himself to help us find a few things we need before we arrive at our 'Sleepbox' hostel. If his spontaneous hospitality is anything to go by then we're going to enjoy this country. We spend a hot day exploring Taipei on a walking tour and try to understand its complicated history. Watching the prayers at the Taoist temples is fascinating and so is trying to work out what we're eating at a night market. Soon it's time to pack up and begin our lap of the island.  We're excited to see what it will throw at us!

Okinawa and Tokashiki, Japan Landing on Okinawa we arrive on route 58 which is dubbed as 'Paradise Road'. The sea is as blue as we've ever seen and made more vibrant by the sunshine. But behind the sandy beaches sit huge resorts, hotels and busy towns. Route 58 is a dual carriageway and not quite the image of paradise we were expecting. We make our way down to Kadena where we are hosted by Kirsty's friend Holly with her family. Her husband Kimball works on the air force base which is having an open day but they suggest we first visit a small museum that explains the friction between the local residents and their American neighbours. Okinawa was occupied by the US for 30 years after the 2nd world war and there are still a huge number of bases on the island. As we watch some traditional Okinawan musicians some fighter jets fly over and drown out the kazoos and drums. This deafening noise is one of the reasons why the locals are a bit fed up. Crossing the road we enter the air force base for AMERICA FEST! Rows of huge PLANES! GUNS! HELICOPTERS! There's a stage with loud ROCK music! We can buy BEER! And BURGERS! The only thing needed to complete the scene would be Uncle Sam flying in on a bald eagle. It's an annual PR stunt to let the residents of Kadena see all the American toys and seems to be popular enough for most people to forget the issues raised in the museum. We need a last dose of our kind of paradise, so find a ferry to one of the smaller islands to the west. Sitting in the Kerama islands, Tokashiki is just what we're after. We can't take the bikes on the hydrofoil though, so have to go over on foot, leaving the bikes locked on the dockside. After a stroll through forests, swimming and night on a platform overlooking the island we catch the ferry back and of course find our bikes and kit all intact and undisturbed. We wouldn't consider doing this in any country other than Japan. With a last day in the main city of Naha to get ourselves ready to leave, the streets are as busy as any we've seen since Tokyo. In the morning the bikes are wrapped and checked in without an issue. We climb on board the plane and get ready for our next country: Taiwan.

Amami, Japan The ferry drops us on the island of Amami at the ungodly hour of 5am. It's a mountainous island, so the engineers have been busy building tunnels through the hills. But we soon decide we didn't come all this way to see the inside of tunnels, and take an old road up and over the mountain. We pass an area of mangrove forest where they are offering kayaking trips. We're the only non-Japanese paddlers in the group and we get to see this incredible habitat up close and get a couple of kingfisher sightings.. We stop at the free campground at Yadorihama. The place is deserted and we have the amazing beach all to ourselves. Working our way around the coast with 50 shades of blue sea to our left, and 50 shades of green forest to our right - 51 shades of green if you count the matcha tea latte. There is little traffic, but what there is is about 75% cement mixers, on their way to or from concreting over some natural feature. Every river is lined with concrete, every beach has a concrete seawall, every slope that might conceivably result in a landslide is coated in concrete. It seems a shame to cover all this natural beauty, but in a country which is permanently on high alert for the next natural disaster it's understandable. These islands are the last remaining habitat of the Amami black rabbit. They're shy and nocturnal, so sadly our only sighting is of a stuffed one in the wildlife centre. Services are few and far between, so the cowboy themed Westerner's Cafe is a welcome sight with a petit owner standing half as tall as Marcus. We have a ferry to catch early the next morning, so spend the evening in the port of Naze, eating okinomiyaki. After paying the restaurant bill with the last of our cash we remember we have to pay the fee to get the bicycles on the ferry in cash. Every ATM spits our card straight out and we start to panic. Our salvation comes in the form of a group of teachers on a night out. One of them asks "How much do you need?". "About 4000 yen". Suddenly pockets are being rifled through and wallets pulled out. Five 1000 yen notes are produced and again were humbled by the generosity of strangers. We catch our next ferry bound for Okinawa.

Makurazaki to Kagoshima, Kyushu, Japan Overnight the wind had picked up and there's a brief lull giving us time to pack up but it picks up again mid-morning with added rain for good measure. In a particularly exposed section the sideways gusts force us off the bikes. In front of us should be the perfect conical form of Mt. Kaimon but the clouds keep most of it hidden all day. After a cold, soggy day in the saddle there's nothing quite like being buried in hot sand to get some life back into the body. It's the main attraction in Ibusuki and it is perfectly timed today. We pull on flowery gowns and lie in a pit before the onsen staff shovel heaps of hot sand onto us. It's the weight of it that surprises us at first before the warmth kicks in. The next day is calmer and we catch a ferry to the Osumi peninsula and make our way down to Cape Sata. This is Japan's equivalent to Lands End being the most southerly point of the main islands. With no more road to ride we turn around, and on the way back up, Mt Kaimon finally takes it's cloudy hat off to reveal its full height. By the evening the wind is back with a vengeance and hits 35mph and even stronger gusts. The free campsite we aim for is deserted so we set ourselves up in the shower block for the night. I check the weather before we settle in and the wind snatches the door out of my hand like a spoilt toddler grabbing a sweet. It would have been a sleepless night in the tent. It's still strong in the morning and we're worried we might not get anywhere today. But we've got a boat to catch, so venture out regardless. Luckily it's not as bad as last night and we're soon approaching the smoking mass of Sakurajima, Japan's most active volcano. It used to sit on an island but a huge eruption in 1914 filled in the 400m gap to the mainland so we can cross onto the 'lava road' around its base without a ferry. We cross to Kagoshima, then head to the commercial port to catch a boat to try and get to more islands in the archipelago further south. Our boat is more of a cargo ship than a ferry and the accommodation is basic at best. It quickly gets rough and we hope to keep our dinner down for the 11hr journey.